The Salt Exchange

A couple of weeks ago, Charlie attended a Gulf of Maine Research Institute [GMRI] event called "Trawl to Table." The event was targeted at local restaurant chefs, and was intended to take a look at - and demystify - the concept of trawling as sustainable practice. Attending the event had such an impact on Charlie that The Salt Exchange is now offering more sustainable catch fish. I (Alex Steed, the Salt Exchange blogger) talked with Charlie a bit about the event.

What was the premise of the From Trawl to Table event?

The intention was to educate local area area restaurant chefs and owners on sustainable catch and fishing practices around the gulf of Maine. Sam Hayward [of Fore Street], Guy Hernandez [of Bar Lola] and Michele Cory [of Five Fifty-Five] were there as well, as were some members of Browne Trading Market and others.

What was discussed at the event?

Well, the name "Trawl to Table" is a play on "nose to tail" or "farm to table," and we discussed current fishing techniques and technology at great length. As indicated by the name, we focused on how these techniques and technology relate to trawling.

Can you talk more about trawling?

They explained that trawling gets a very bad rap because of some terrible and somewhat barbaric practices in trawling being utilized in the practice overseas, like the killing of whales, dolphins, and other aquatic animals. The adoption of new trawling technologies have made the practice especially sustainable here in Maine. By using nets that differentiate between fish morphology and swimming habits, local fishermen can increase their catch of one type of species while reducing the number of fish caught that they do not want.

Additionally, net gap-width and shape can help to determine the size of the fish they intend to catch, so fish too small for catching swim through.

What else did you learn there?

We had a conversation regarding the types of fish at market and their longterm sustainability, which I found compelling. The sustainability ratings were based on current data about their stocks off the Gulf of Maine. There are many great, local fish that are not being utilized because there is no market for them commercially. If restaurants - particularly those serving higher end fare - were to more actively showcase lesser known local varieties, we would see reductions in over-fishing as it pertains to more desirable fish such as Cod.

By rotating the type of fish that we eat and serve with more regularity and purpose, we could reasonable contribute to managing Maine fishing stocks to more sustainable levels.

How can other restaurants be helpful with regard to helping manage fish sustainability?

I had suggested a need for increased marketing of these lesser known fish - perhaps a "Fish of the Month" that can be advertised through the Maine Restaurant Association, as well as by going through local, respected purveyors like Harbor Fish and Browne Trading Market. At the Salt Exchange, we will definitely be including more Hake on the menu, and educating our community about it. Also, I would also like to give a shootout to Five Fifty-Five and the Cory's, as they are featuring a drink on their menu where $1 from every drink goes to support research for sustainable fishing practices in Maine.